I am getting ready to jump into my dead transmission on my 1985 300TD so I want to buy a parts washer to make the cleaning much easier. I looked at several websites and the affordable ones are at Northern Tool, and on eBay. I am fairly sure they are Chinese. The other alternative is to find a used one that is close by on eBay.

Does anyone have experience with one of these offshore parts washers? How do they hold up? I am looking at the 20 gallon ones on eBay.

Unless you plan on using a huge parts washer frequently, like for business or heavy hobby use, perhaps consider making one. I've seen really nice home-made units using cast-off restaurant stainless and even wash tubs. The pump is the key part, available aftermarket, or use an old oil furnace pump.

Yes, it would be an easy item to make, but there is absolutely nothing wrong with the Chinese cheapies from HF or Northern. After all, it's nothing but a steel sink with a pump.

I bought one from one of these vendors about 11 or 12 years ago and have used the heck out of it with no trouble at all. As I recall, I gave $100 for it.

Good luck,

The advantage to using a properly manufactured parts washer with an automatic closing lid -- instead of an old stainless steel wash basin -- will become readily apparent when you encounter your first spark.

I wash parts at home all the time. My simple setup consists of an 8-qt pan, a gallon of solvent (mineral spirits or kerosene), and some old toothbrushes. Actually, I have two containers of solvent.... one for the yucky stuff, and the other for cleaner stuff.

Growing up, a setup like Kestas describes is what my Dad used in his shop in the fifties and sixties. He had the bottom 8 inches or so cut out of a 55 gallon drum and poured in the naptha. There was a piece of sheet metal that they put on top when it was not in use. Definitely not the safest thing that ever was, but there were never any fires or anything.

In those days, even well equipped shops had lots of home made stuff like that. Jackstands were cut from old Ford axle housings and the shop heaters were a serpentine arrangement of sheet metal stovepipe with a gas jet in the bottom end.

Where my Dads shop DID look up to date was his Sun Master Motor Tester and Sun Distributor Machine. There were no lifts, only air powered bumper jacks and creepers.

As far as the safety of using a basin or pan, you can use a non flammable safety solvent if you are worried about it. For me, however, $99 has seemed like money well spent.

Good luck,

Safety isn't much of an issue when using an 8-qt pan. When finished, I pour back the solvent into the jugs and cap it.

Kerosene - or diesel fuel - should be safe enough to use.

I wash parts at home all the time. My simple setup consists of an 8-qt pan, a gallon of solvent (mineral spirits or kerosene), and some old toothbrushes. Actually, I have two containers of solvent.... one for the yucky stuff, and the other for cleaner stuff.

It is one of those tools that once you have it, you don't know how you did without it. I used to have a really cool antique one that I bought used and rebuilt, but I lost it when I sold my woodworking shop.

I would take a greasy part and turn the tap on the part and leave the pump on the part and just the action of the cleaning fluid (mineral spirits) flowing out of the pump would knock most of the crud off of the part before I ever touched it with a brush.

I am tracking a used US built one on eBay right now but if I don't get that I will go for one of the offshor specials. (I hate Chinese goods, but I can't spend the fortune that the new US ones are going for, especially because I am not making a living with it)

I too hate to buy the chinese junk, but sometimes it's the only practical choice.

Have a great day,

There are two manufacturers that I am aware that make these units using an air pump, you may want to do a search to see if you can find one of their units. Chemfree out of Norcross, GA and Clayton Brake Associates in New Jersey (not sure of town).

Obviously these are both made here the in good ole US of A.
:cool:

I got a Chinese 5 gallon parts washer.....its fine for what I do...which is use it very rarely...

I bought a washer from Northern Tool and it works just fine. I believe I paid $79.00 on a sale. Highly recommend it for the casual home mechanic. Before you put cleaning fluid in, get a ballcock valve and put it in the drain outlet. It makes a mess if you try to drain it by just removing the plug.
Tim

I have an old air operated 30 gallon (maybe 30) tank made by Sioux. Shortly after I got it (free from employer who signed on with Safety Kleen), I realized that it takes waaaaaaay too much air to operate this thing. If air compressing was free...maybe...but my compressor seems to draw lots of amps...and edison seems to have their hand out. I yanked that air pump, and put in a $30 dollar replacement pump from Northern that is electric. Been over 10 years...narry a problem with the pump.

Since I dont need 30 gallons of solvent, I buy a 5 gallon pail of Agitene from Airgas for about $50 dollars, and place it inside the 30 gallon drum. It sits on a lift to get it closer to the drain pipe I installed.

I have used most of the cleaners mentioned. Agitene is probably the best one in terms of all the usual criteria. It doesnt smell bad or put out noxious fumes. It cleans very well, and hardly leaves any residue if you fall to blow off excess.

The best tip I can give anyone who cleans soiled parts....get a pass through brush. The difference is night and day....you will wonder how you lived without it. The brush attaches to the end of the spout, and the solvent comes right out through the bristles. You are scrubbing and washing away crud at the same time...and there is no splashing on you. I paid a Safty Kleen driver $15 dollars for one 10 years ago. Since then, I had to cut off that overhose and tapped the handle directly with 1/8 npt, and installed a fitting instead. Now my hose it hard wired directly to the brush permanently.

About 25 years ago....as a teen...buddy of mine (rather a nut) tried and tried to get solvent to catch on fire. He even vaporized it, and could not get it to burn. I know the can says flammable...but I would like to know what it takes. In my 25 years of always being around solvent...I have never seen one burn. Maybe you need a burning building or something to get it boiling first.

It is my understanding that with a lot of these solvents, it is best to wear heavy non-permeable gloves. I hear it isn't good to have one's skin absorb the additives of these cleaners. Is that your understanding?

Haasman

It is my understanding that with a lot of these solvents, it is best to where heavy non-permeable gloves. I hear it isn't good to have one's skin absorb the additives of these cleaners. Is that your understanding?
Haasman

I have a friend that has a real reaction to the Safety Clean solvent. His skin gets red and raw from direct contact with the solvent. I on the other hand, am not bothered by it, but I want a set of non-permeable gloves just in case. I am sure that long term contact with any solvent can not be good for you.

I was planning on just using mineral spirits. I figure if I close the cover every time so that it doesn't evaporate it should be fine.

As far as skin contact goes, I think that any of the safety solvents are WAAaay better on your skin that diesel, gas, naptha or kerosene. Of those four naptha and kerosene are less offensive to your skin.

When I was a kid my Dad used Naptha and he said it was because it didn't bother his skin. There probably were vendors like Safety Kleen in the fifties, but you couldn't have proved it by me. My Dad is so tight with his money, that he probably just elected to go the cheaper route.

Have a great day,

[QUOTE=LarryBible]As far as skin contact goes, I think that any of the safety solvents are WAAaay better on your skin that diesel, gas, naptha or kerosene. Of those four naptha and kerosene are less offensive to your skin.
QUOTE]

Once when I was working on a Volvo IO carburator inside the boat, I didn't realize it but gas was going onto the deck of the boat that I was sitting on while working on the engine. The deck was already wet and it was a scorching Florida day so I didn't mind sitting in the water to keep cool, but then my skin started to burn, and I realized what had happened. Sitting in the gas gave me a really bad rash, and my skin burned to the touch.

Maybe that is why I like diesel so much.

...I was planning on just using mineral spirits....

Our parts washer at work uses mineral spirits. It's a fancy washer where you can press a button and the solvent is cleaned by distillation overnight.

Our parts washer at work uses mineral spirits. It's a fancy washer where you can press a button and the solvent is cleaned by distillation overnight.Showoff.................:D

I can't imagine an American made unit costing $100 - that's what the Communist Chinese versions cost ... and, they are made by people making $5 a day, maybe children, possibly criminals ... I, too, bought one of the ChiCom versions - no other reasonable choice for two hours a year use.

Do you really need a parts washer. I'v rebuilt 2 automatic transmisions in the last two years using Simple Green and a garden hose.

John Roncallo