The corroded seam, about 15 inches long, that I am trying to fix is on the outside edge of the passenger rear floorboard. I have seen this same seam damaged in about 4 or 5 W123s.( So please forget abou the idea of cutting one from another car!)
The front of the seam is only one inch behind where the front passenger side seatbelt bolts to. It runs straight back and the rear of the seam is the just prior to the hump where the bench seat of the rear seat rests.
Inspection of the damaged area from underneath reveals that the steel in this area was stamped and has several wells and raised points and is not a simple flat plain surface. Also it was covered with undercoating and really needs to be grinded!
Inspection of the damaged area from the top shows that two layers of steel are damaged. The first layer is the floorboard I just mentioned and the second layer is an inner area that forms the door edge hump.
I have heard that floorboards should always be repaired by welding from the bottom. Should I start grinding the area from underneath meanwhile?
I have at least a month before I finish reading my Haynes Welding manual and practice with my equipment, but i would like to start the surface prep now.

I wouldn't leave it exposed for very long as you know it will rust quickly. However, you can spray it with metal prep which will protect it for a little while.

and saw a Lincoln MIG with Gas unit,for $700, I was tempted to buy it on the spot ( it was out of box and normally 1000 ), but I'm pretty level headed with the Credit Card, and I didn't..it sure is hard to find a good used welder at 220 with gas and MIG, because they disappear instantly but I 'm going to be patient about this..

As I grinded and prepped the seam, I would spray primer on it to protect it temporarily until the day of the actual weld. I'm tempted to start grinding now, in case there is more cancer than I first expected...

I'm tempted to start grinding now, in case there is more cancer than I first expected...

...in case?:bowrofl: :bowrofl:

Rich,

Just so you know. Lincoln is not known for their wirefeed welders. They make good stick welders and the boys on the pipelines really like their gas engine powered welders, but Lincoln is just not the best for a wirefeed.

Miller makes Hobart and they are known for their wirefeed welders. If there is a TSC store near you they have a special Hobart package that is not available anywhere else. It includes a Hobart Handler 180, an auto darkening helmet, a cart, a small CO2/Argon bottle, gloves, a chipping hammer and a steel brush for a little over $600. Now that Christmas is over you might can even get it cheaper. The helmet, if bought separately, is a $139 helmet.

An auto darkening helmet is a BIG advantage for a beginning welder.

I would strongly recommend that you look for one of these packages or at least come up with a Miller or Hobart if you are going to get a MIG welder.

Welders are an item that is VERY difficult to find in good shape on the used market, and when you do find one you will pay nearly a new price for it.

BTW, watch your mailbox for the next few days.

Have a great day,

Rich,

Just so you know. Lincoln is not known for their wirefeed welders. They make good stick welders and the boys on the pipelines really like their gas engine powered welders, but Lincoln is just not the best for a wirefeed.

Miller makes Hobart and they are known for their wirefeed welders. If there is a TSC store near you they have a special Hobart package that is not available anywhere else. It includes a Hobart Handler 180, an auto darkening helmet, a cart, a small CO2/Argon bottle, gloves, a chipping hammer and a steel brush for a little over $600. Now that Christmas is over you might can even get it cheaper. The helmet, if bought separately, is a $139 helmet.

An auto darkening helmet is a BIG advantage for a beginning welder.

I would strongly recommend that you look for one of these packages or at least come up with a Miller or Hobart if you are going to get a MIG welder.

Welders are an item that is VERY difficult to find in good shape on the used market, and when you do find one you will pay nearly a new price for it.

BTW, watch your mailbox for the next few days.

Have a great day,

That deal that Larry mentions is the best I've heard of. You're gonna waste a lot of time trying to find a better deal than that, and you probably won't find it. Really. Spend that time welding instead.

...in case?:bowrofl: :bowrofl:

That is pretty darned funny. I was thinking the same thing....Although like you said its common these cars..If its any consolation my car has a similar issue.....what is the saying? what the welder adds the grinder taketh away?

THANKS LARRY! Well see, I was Lucky. I didnt rush out and buy the first machine I saw. I saw all these $199 units at Home Depot and Loews.

I decided to read all my welding books that I ordered first.

Welding is big stuff in the USA. People even have Forums for underwater welders and welders run by Huge Diesel Engines. I've used powerful tools in my Life--but seriously a Diesel powered welder---isn't that something that would be say around 1000 Amps?
And maybe enough to weld on a skyscraper?
I mean just in case, thats all I ended up with,a 1000 amp Diesel powered welder, would a welder that powerful be able to discharge lightning bolts or even start a tornado if I did not adjust it right?

The patchwork I am doing in this area will get a floorboard to side panel patch that is welded in from the top. More than one piece of metal actually, because the rust is pretty long down that waterway. Once this patchwork is in place and sealed and painted or otherwise rust treated (POR-15), then I can drive the car.

Later when the weather is warmer I can go back with a second patch of sheet metal on the outside under the car, should I decide that the rocker panels need to be closed back up. But it may be easier to clean out and monitor for rust if this is not closed up.

Same thing on the driver's side with the new stamped floor board. That is welded in from the top.

The disadvantage of doing the repair this way vice welding from underneath is being sure you get the underside of the repair sealed against rust, since it typically comes in contact with water, salt, etc.

The advantage is ease of repair and less metal to cut out, and it's much easier to prepare the interior metal for welding than the undercoated underside of the car.

But a professional repair - it's not. :)

Ken300D

P.S. In some cases I may have to seal an area with another, lighter gauge patch of metal because of the irregularities you mention in the floor's surface. The main patch is for strength and most of the seal, with a lighter patch to complete the seal.

THANKS LARRY! Well see, I was Lucky. I didnt rush out and buy the first machine I saw. I saw all these $199 units at Home Depot and Loews.

I decided to read all my welding books that I ordered first.

Welding is big stuff in the USA. People even have Forums for underwater welders and welders run by Huge Diesel Engines. I've used powerful tools in my Life--but seriously a Diesel powered welder---isn't that something that would be say around 1000 Amps?
And maybe enough to weld on a skyscraper?
I mean just in case, thats all I ended up with,a 1000 amp Diesel powered welder, would a welder that powerful be able to discharge lightning bolts or even start a tornado if I did not adjust it right?


Rich,

There is a good welding forum at www.hobartwelders.com Click on the Weld Talk button at the top of the home page.

Enjoy,

That deal that Larry mentions is the best I've heard of. You're gonna waste a lot of time trying to find a better deal than that, and you probably won't find it. Really. Spend that time welding instead.

And to add a little more to what Larry and Pete have to say...

I saw this Hobart special at TSC the other night (not much else to do all alone in Sault Ste Marie on a Wednesday night), if I didn't already have a Hobart mig welder I would have snapped this one up. It has everything my rig came with (except I didn't get an auto-dimming hood) for about the same price I paid.

I also noted that TSC has a mighty nice 48" brake as well as a shear. I might end up buying one (brake that is) here in the Soo and shipping it to CA if I find there isn't a TSC within a hundred miles of the house.

What can I say, window shopping at the TSC is my new pastime.

Born and bred in Southern California, I have no idea what a TSC store is.:confused:

and saw a Lincoln MIG with Gas unit,for $700, I was tempted to buy it on the spot ( it was out of box and normally 1000 ), but I'm pretty level headed with the Credit Card, and I didn't..it sure is hard to find a good used welder at 220 with gas and MIG, because they disappear instantly but I 'm going to be patient about this..

As I grinded and prepped the seam, I would spray primer on it to protect it temporarily until the day of the actual weld. I'm tempted to start grinding now, in case there is more cancer than I first expected...


check out homedepot for the miller 220v mig that comes with everything but the gas. much cheaper than anywhere else i have seen. thats the unit i am planning on buying.

This is a structural repair, not a pressure certified weld.:eek:

:) It does not need to be air/water tight every millimeter, and that is not desirable with unibody flexibility in mind.

:) Strength is what you need, Mercedes does not solid weld these cars together.

Mercedes uses metal coating, adhesive, sealer and rubber undercoating to seal out water/corrosion. :)

Do not get stressed, or carried away with the fun of making sparks.:)

Heat is the friend/enemy of every welder, learn to use it and respect it.:)

I have the exact model mentioned but in a 120v unit and I love it. Paid around that money for it and it is sweet.

not sure about the tornado part but the use of welders presents hazards that must be accomodated. They can be excellent sources of exposure to the grid (electrical hazards), superb fire starters, provide plenty of inhalation hazards, UV radiation exposures, and offer loads of spark/slag burn opportunities all the while generally requiring the use of a grinder which presents its own set of hazards to accomodate.

bottom line = recognize and accomodate the hazards......And practivce up so some day I can visit and you can weld my floor pan :D

Born and bred in Southern California, I have no idea what a TSC store is.:confused:

Paul,

TSC is "Tractor Supply Company." They are a Canadian company that has migrated through US farm country. They have lots of stuff beyond tractor parts. In fact, nowdays I would say that tractor parts are less than 5% of their business. They have some Chinese junk like Northern or Harbor Freight, but also have some good US products, Hobart being one of their good US lines.

In your travels look for a big, plain red TSC logo with the letters on a diagonal. If you are looking to kill time, browse through the store.

Have a great day,

check out homedepot for the miller 220v mig that comes with everything but the gas. much cheaper than anywhere else i have seen. thats the unit i am planning on buying.

The Home Depot stores in my area handle Lincoln, not Miller.

Miller makes a great wirefeed welder. The only trouble is that the 175 and 135 models have all adjustments infinitely adjustable making it tricky for a beginning weldor to work with. The Hobart Handler welder is made on the same assembly line as the Millermatic and has the same wirefeed mechanism. It is much better suited for a beginner and much the same as the Millermatic in quality and capability.

Have a great day,

The Home Depot stores in my area handle Lincoln, not Miller.

Miller makes a great wirefeed welder. The only trouble is that the 175 and 135 models have all adjustments infinitely adjustable making it tricky for a beginning weldor to work with. The Hobart Handler welder is made on the same assembly line as the Millermatic and has the same wirefeed mechanism. It is much better suited for a beginner and much the same as the Millermatic in quality and capability.

Have a great day,

lincoln is what i meant. i like my lincoln. works great

The Home Depot stores in my area handle Lincoln, not Miller.

Miller makes a great wirefeed welder. The only trouble is that the 175 and 135 models have all adjustments infinitely adjustable making it tricky for a beginning weldor to work with. The Hobart Handler welder is made on the same assembly line as the Millermatic and has the same wirefeed mechanism. It is much better suited for a beginner and much the same as the Millermatic in quality and capability.

Have a great day,

lincoln is what i meant. i like my lincoln. works great

I thought I had mine out of the way but managed to set fire to one of the lines. If it wasnt for a fire extingusher, I think I could have burnt my house down.

I thought I had mine out of the way but managed to set fire to one of the lines. If it wasnt for a fire extingusher, I think I could have burnt my house down.

as my dad would say, LEARN ANYTHING?

I have a Hobart Handler 125 and Northern Tool Techmen Solar powered auto-darkening helmet. So far, it's more powerful than I need, though, as soon as I get the extra cash, I'm going to get the Mig Kit for it so I can shoot gas/plain wire through it.......

So far, I've welded rear fender areas, repaired a front fender, fixed a door check strap with it, and welded a friend's lawn mower deck! Plus many small odds & ends jobs.....

Well worth the $400 I put into it all total....

This is a structural repair, not a pressure certified weld.:eek:

:) It does not need to be air/water tight every millimeter, and that is not desirable with unibody flexibility in mind.


Heat is the friend/enemy of every welder, learn to use it and respect it.:)

Hunter,

Are you suggesting that when doing floorpan replacement/repair that a solid bead (a little at a time) would not be the best goal to shoot for? Or is it just to put in a nice weld and not get wrapped around the drive shaft about water tight welds?

Also, How is it that too much heat will effect the quality of the surrounding metal after the weld? does it get brittle?
Thanks,
j

I think running a bead is not the best method for bodywork. Sheet metal is rolled, by welding your "unrolling" the metal and as a result could weaken it.

Spot welding is what's done at the factory, the best method would be to replicate this as closely as possible and then seal the weld.

You never (strip) prepare welding areas earlier than 48 hours before welding.
The longer it is naked = more time for corrosion to work on naked metal.

The trick is to work in small sections = never prepare more than you can finish in a day.

If massive grinding is required, a temporary sealer may be needed.

For rubber undercoat removal, I suggest the use of goggles, respirator, and heavy wire wheels = larger particles = less heat breakdown toxic chemicals, and most respirators will protect your lungs.

Grinding requires a more expensive respirator = professional automotive painting grade lung protection, ask your doctor why, be prepared for a lecture.

Can I weld alumnum with a MIG welder, provided I get the correct gas, and wire? If not, is there any other menthod other than a TIG welder??

It's harder then welding steel. Most people I know opted for a TIG welder.

some days that is hard enough.. guess I had better find a better method. Thanks,
JD

Useful / comercial information

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/products/ads/twoguys.asp

Can I weld alumnum with a MIG welder, provided I get the correct gas, and wire? If not, is there any other menthod other than a TIG welder??

you can but, the problem most have when using aluminum wire in a wire feed is, if you dont keep the hose completly strait the wire tends to break inside the liner

The Home Depot stores in my area handle Lincoln, not Miller.

Miller makes a great wirefeed welder. The only trouble is that the 175 and 135 models have all adjustments infinitely adjustable making it tricky for a beginning weldor to work with. The Hobart Handler welder is made on the same assembly line as the Millermatic and has the same wirefeed mechanism. It is much better suited for a beginner and much the same as the Millermatic in quality and capability.

Have a great day,

by infinitely adjustable are you talking amps or voltage? infinitely adjustable voltage is a very nice feature.