I am at the point with the 280C where I need to get the hood and fender installed/painted. I have had a number of frustrating conversations with some highly recommended shops that will not do "paint only" work. If I ran the car into a tree they would be happy to repair it, but they will not install a new fender and paint it and the hood.

I did finally find a couple of places that will do the work for $400-500, but the experience caused me to think again about doing painting myself. You can get a good HVLP set-up including a gun for $600-800. These have low-enough "bounce" and overspray that they can be used in a garage without making a complete mess.

I also have the 250C up next, which will get a color change which means lots of work on fender wells, door jambs and other places.

I realize that I am not likely to turn into a skilled painter overnight, but it is obviously a good skill to have. There are a number of classes and books.

Anyone out there tried their hand at painting with HVLP technology, or know of someone who has?

TIA

Chuck

I am a novice, real novice painter, so no expert advice here. I woulnd't do my MB as a first paint job. Go to the junk yard buy a used hood or door and practice prepping (prep is THE crucial and most important step!) on it.

In ref to that hvlp setup you are talking about, those are no good. You need a gun for primer, a gun for paint, compressor, run the right length/diameter/drops of air lines, a filter and a regulator on the wall and one at the gun.

As for which gun, just as in cars, there are opinions and alot of good ones. I chose a Sharpe Platinum HVLP :D, I have a SHarpe regulater /filter, a Sharpe regulator at the gun, and a 60 gal Campsbell 5-6 hp compressor . My Sharpe gun is ok with this small compressor b/c it requires low psi to work right (forgot the technical explanation :rolleyes: .

Try a few of these sights, they are the best I found, and lots of experts ready to help on there. Good luck!


http://www.autobodystore.com/ http://www.allsprayguns.com/
http://www.autorestorer.com/ http://www.paintucation.com/ http://www.sharpe1.com/

I painted decades ago. I recommend against it. There are a number of dangers involved – fumes, fire, exposure to toxins chief amongst them. Plus you need a very clean environment. Even airborne dust will substantially diminish the end result. Plus, as you pointed out, you need the time to learn to paint as well.

To save some money, do the prep work yourself. With a good foundation underneath, even an Earl Schibe or Makko (sp) paint job is a good solution.

While I haven't shot a complete car in a few years, I was good at one point, and have shot about 200 cars.

For a spot repair, a big problem is in matching the color. The shops have all of the tints available to match your paint exactly. Many will guarantee the match.

A few years ago, a guy on a 10-speed stuffed himself into the passenger door and fender of our 300E. I was tempted to shoot it, but I just did the body and prep work and paid a high-end shop to put the color on it. I was not happy to pay the bucks when I have all the right tools at home, but I was extremely happy with the match and the quality of the finished product. It really depends on how particular you are about your MBZ.

In addition to the cost of the right equipment, paint is VERY expensive these days. You could easily go through $200-$300 in materials "practicing". I'd start with an old tool box or motorcycle or something to see if you like it. Many people find it aggravating.

I don't really think you can paint cars as a hobby. To produce results acceptable to us Benz owners, I think years and years of experience is needed. To obtain the highest results I really think you need to go to a professional.

just my $0.2c

I just painted my 76 300d in the garage. Total color change from Nickle green to deep green. I spray cabinets and doors on a regular basis. this is my 3rd auto paint job in two years.

I stripped the car, chrome, glass etc.
Did all the bodywork, 25 yrs worth of dings and dents
sanded off all the old gloss.
wiped with de-greaser
shot primer coat in driveway
wet sand primer with 400 grit
moved car into garage, turned of all pilot lights int heater and water heater
shot color coat
evened gloss with maroon 3m pad
wiped down with degreaser
shot first clear coat
CRITICAL!!!!
shoot second coat of clearcoat within ten minutes of starting point.
Repaired screw ups
wet sanded clearcoat (after 12hrs) with 1500 & 2000 grit
buffed with 3m finesse-it II

It took me all weekend to do just the painting part
Wear a resparator
reducers and catalists are temperature sensitive

I used an HVLP setup with my 30gal 6hp compressor. You may need different needle valves for the gun as the different coats have different viscosities

I ended up with a nice paint job, not perfect, but it would take a trained eye to spot my glitches. My buddy and technical advisor who paints cars for a living was impressed with the outcome of my first clearcoat try and offered me a job.

It cost me $250 and a lot of time

If you are not particular of the finish in quality, then :

1. do it yourself after mustering some confidence; OR
2. get someone else to do it (who is able to do it about right)in their spare time.

Some 20 years ago was the last time I shot a car. For some reason, probably a stupid one, I took my respirator off. I'm sure I put it back on when I realized my error, but the damage had been done. Later that night I went to the hospital with very labored breathing.

Apparently I was having a serious allergic reation to the paint or catalyst. After several hours and a triple dose of epinephrine I was able to go home. The doctors were unsure if there was going to be any lasting damage, but I came through OK. Should I ever shoot another car, you can bet I'll leave that respirator in place until the quart cup has been cleaned.

Body work and primer stages

Post paint and buff. A little dusty

It really does look excellent!

:)